| What is the RMS wattage of your amplifier? I'm doubting it's 3000 watts RMS (probably 3000 peak). If your amplifier was pulling 3000 watts (and your speaker was demanding that much), you would be using over 200 amps of power. Even at maximum output, the OEM alternators are not capable of that. To put it in perspective, my Maxima e-fans draw around 18 amps of power (I tested them with an amp clamp). This plus the normal functions in my Z overtaxed my alternator at idle and voltage dropped to 12.5v (which drained my battery down). You'll find the OEM alternator only produces around 30-35 amps at idle. If you have some extra dough, I recommend looking into a DC Power hairpin alternator. Mine produces 100 amps at idle. These use new Denso cores that are much more efficient than our old alts. Do you have the full specs on your speaker and amplifier? For a very serious amplifier and subwoofer, I usually recommend 0 gauge wire. You'll also want to beef up grounding to your battery if you're using the chassis as a ground from your amplifier. I apologize for the big digression here. I doubt this is related to the failure of your head unit unless it was very inexpensive. It's good to make sure your setup is adequately powered and connected though (imo). Maybe your HU was failing anyway? It just seems odd that your abs light flashes when you touch your brake pedal. I'm almost thinking that something is shorted or broken somewhere else. Have you watched your battery voltage while tapping the brake pedal? Have you checked for phantom power drain? Does your battery die quickly unless you run your car often?
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